I guess I’m completely stressed out from refraining from going out. While I still have some denim to wear, I bought a pair of dead stock blue (DSB) 1915 models.
I’d like to take a look at the fabric texture and parts of the garment as it has been one-washed.
As you can see in the pull-out photo, the fabric has strong shrinkage and a grainy texture.
- 1 Deadstock Blue 1001xx (1915 model) Overview
- 2 Deadstock blue 1001xx (1915 model) fabric
- 3 Deadstock Blue Fabric Shrinkage (by Dryer)
- 4 Cautions for removing glue
- 5 parts
- 6 Silhouette & Size
- 7 Deadstock Blue Faded Prediction
Deadstock Blue 1001xx (1915 model) Overview
This model is equipped with specifications that allow jeans to enter mass production as a full-fledged “industrial product.
The fabric is “7.5 x 7.5 yarn count” light at 12.5-13oz, and is a blend of 50% pure indigo and 50% natural indigo.
I think this is the same fabric as DSB’s 1940’s XX models, “1000xx” and “1000zxx”, although the dyeing is different.
Price: 35,200 yen / 37,400 yen with belt loops
Deadstock blue 1001xx (1915 model) fabric
First of all, the fabric is quite thin, using “7.5 x 7.5 ” woven yarn, which is the biggest feature.
The fabric shrinks a lot, so I thought it would be about 13.5oz after washing, but it feels like 12.5oz when I wear it.
It’s somewhere between regular denim and painters.
Fluffing is uneven and scarce.
I think this is inevitable because the oz is low, but the fabric seems to have an early timing for accelerated fading.
It’s just been one-washed from rigid, so there will be some wrinkles as usual, but even so, there are a lot of wrinkles.
You can see the characteristics of a fabric with a high shrinkage rate, large uneven weave, and high elasticity.
Hip pockets. The characteristics of the fabric really show.
This is what the fabric looks like from the back. The weave is very uneven.
It is more obvious when the fabric is used in a vertical section.
Deadstock Blue Fabric Shrinkage (by Dryer)
The shrinkage rate of the fabric (shrinkage from rigid) is generally said to be around 8%, but there were a few stores that listed this model as 9%.
Waist: 43.5cm flat, Inseam: 87cm, Thigh: 34cm, Hem width: 24cm
Waist: 38.5cm (flat), Inseam: 77.5cm (flat), Thigh: 32.7cm (flat), Hem width: 22.5cm (flat), Front of inseam: 30cm (flat)
Waist: 11.5%, Inseam: 10.9%, Thigh: 4.7%, Hem width: 6.2
Cautions for removing glue
The deadstock blue leather patch (vegetable-tanned deerskin label) may be special, but the labeling disappeared in the wash when the glue was removed.
I thought it might be a problem with the temperature of the wash, but from what I’ve seen people post on Instagram, everyone’s labels are coming off reasonably well, so I think it’s a unique specification of DSB.
Top and suspender buttons are stamped with “SPECIAL”.
The stitching on the pockets is beautiful.
The rivets have a slightly oxidized look to them.
The inner rivets are more oxidized than the outer ones. I’m sure they are conscious of this area as well, which is a tremendous commitment.
The slake is made of a coarse, textured fabric.
There are no seam allowance finishes, and threads are popping out from various places.
A deerskin patch whose print has been lost in the first wash.
Silhouette & Size
173cm 67kg wearing size 33inch”.
It is a 1915 model, so it is thick. Around the waist to below the knee, it has a unique Warehouse balance.
The Warehouse silhouette appears to fall (drop) from the side of the waist when viewed from the front.
The sides are thicker than the wattles, so the silhouette falls straight down. This is good.
The back view is also nice.
Deadstock Blue Faded Prediction
I don’t think many people will get the 1915 model in the future, but I think the “7.5 x 7.5 yarn count” fabric is the axis of the deadstock blue.
I have not actually worn it yet, so my impressions are subtle, but honestly speaking, it seems to be a fabric that is quite difficult to get a good color fade.
Unless the fabric is 13.5 oz, it’s hard to get a bite with this thin fabric.
The weave is too loose (too uneven).
The color will fade easily in parts, but I think it will fade easily overall, so the contrast will be small.
The fabric is firm.
This is a good point, but I am quite concerned about how long this bounce will last.
Not firm enough.
It does not have firmness, partly due to its sweet weave. When the fabric loses its firmness, there is a possibility that it will become turgid.
This makes color contrast even more difficult to achieve.
In addition, because of the strong unevenness, the color will not be sticky and will probably be white.
I hope the color fading will overcome the above concerns, but I think we should be very careful about how we wear them in the beginning.