Japanese denim a little new fabric & fadeing brand recommendation

Now that I have been wearing reproduction denim for about 20 years and have worn major brands to some extent, I will simply introduce denim that I would like to wear.


As the first denim brand made in Japan, CANTON was established in 1963 and is well known to denim fans from long ago.

During the heyday of reproduction denim in the 1990s, the brand self-replicated its own denim, but to be honest, it was not very well made and we had forgotten about its existence.

In recent years, the brand has collaborated with Margaret Howell and provided uniforms to Sarutahiko Coffee, and is working as a fashion brand using high-quality materials rather than vintage-like denim.

But on the other hand, Canton also produces XX reproductions that are quite hot.

CANTON jeans were first made in Japan in 1963. At that time, CANTON was a pioneer brand of jeans in Japan, importing fabrics made by Corn Mills, Talon fasteners, and Scovill rivets, and sewing them on Union Special sewing machines, and tackling the production of authentic jeans with thorough attention to detail.
What is CANTON’s goal for XX denim?
Denim was woven from the late 1800s to the 1960s by two U.S. companies, Amoskeag and Cone Mills. With technological innovation in the 20th century, the textile industry underwent a major transformation, resulting in the existence of a wide variety of XX denim with different expressions and textures depending on the age. Even among the existing unwashed fabrics called “Dead,” the differences are not uniform due to the environment in which they were stored and the aging process over time.

―Adapted from http://canton.jp/1963xx/

To be honest, I had a bad impression of CANTON, but I have a good feeling about the fabric and the faded sample has an original feel to it. Personally, I am quite intrigued by the fact that the fabric is low in ounce (12oz before washing → 13.5oz after washing), but has such a good bite and the indigo color remains well.


I also like the fact that Canton is a fashion brand and not a reproduction. The silhouette is beautiful, and there is no fussiness. It has all the elements I was looking for in denim.

The website has been closed. It seems that the company is not bankrupt, but it is difficult to obtain reliable information.


created by Rinker
¥36,300(2024/07/14 16:28:05時点 楽天市場調べ-詳細)


Three kingdoms overalls is an American casual store that manufactures and sells original products made in Japan, located in Nagoya City, Aichi Prefecture.


The quality of the products, which is not the product of a single store, can be seen in the photos.

1. special order 100% natural indigo dyed (NATURAL INDIGO) 15.3oz selvedge denim, old style power loom (G type), low tension weaving, raw loom, made in Okayama
2. original warp uneven yarn original weft uneven yarn
3. 100% high quality long-fiber Zimbabwe cotton
4. 100% natural indigo, rope-dyed, darkest dye, core white

What caught my attention was the indigo color. It is a shiny fabric dyed with natural indigo, and a beautiful blue when the indigo dyed to the darkest shade expresses itself.

There are not many samples of color fading yet, so I don’t know how it will look after a few years of wear, but this is one I would like to try fading myself.

As someone who likes low ounces, the 15.3 oz. fabric is a bottleneck for me and I have yet to purchase these, but I would definitely recommend them to those who like heavy ounces.




Original jeans from BASE DECOMP, an American casual store in Ibaraki, Japan. The waist label may be controversial, but the natural-looking fading is a unique type of fading.


Denim inspired by the jeans made shortly after the war, 13.5 oz. fabric, iron buttons.

It is a denim with a nice look, although it is not well known because the store is not very enthusiastic about advertising.


I also like the change in leather patches and the packering atmosphere.


When punctured in an intense environment, it seems to be such an intense punch.



Oe Clothing Store’s denim makes you want to wear it at least once, anyway, when you see their attitude toward making things as a taylor. The brand has many core fans, and its Instagram posts often receive reactions from overseas.


The supple fabric made of Zimbabwe cotton has the elegance of a tailor.


The gradation of color fading is soft and not too assertive. Personally, I like this denim to fade smoothly without adding too many whiskers.

The denim is relatively difficult to obtain due to the small number of pieces produced, but that also adds to the satisfaction of owning it.

https://www.barnstormer.jp/(The store with the most inventory)


TCB Jeans 20’s

from http://tcbjeans.com/

It is a well-known brand among the brands introduced here, so it may seem like a bit of a new thing, but as a lover of light ounces, TCB’s 20’s is one I can’t miss.

from http://tcbjeans.com/

The fabric is 12.5 oz. with warp and weft yarns of No. 8 cotton, specially ordered for this model, and dyed in indigo with a strong bluish hue characteristic of this era.

from http://tcbjeans.com/

The fabric is firm despite its low ounceage, so it is relatively easy to get a bite. the photo by TCB is slightly exaggerated, but the color faded well in person.



created by Rinker
¥26,620(2024/07/14 16:28:05時点 楽天市場調べ-詳細)
created by Rinker
¥36,300(2024/07/14 16:28:05時点 楽天市場調べ-詳細)