Fade Focused! But a little new denim brand recommendation

2023年1月28日
Column, Recommend

Now that I have been wearing reproduction denim for about 20 years and have worn major brands to some extent, I will simply introduce denim that I would like to wear.

1 CANTON
2 threekingdomsoveralls
3 BASE DECOMP d46.5
4 OOE YOFUKUTEN
5 TCB Jeans 20’s

CANTON

As the first denim brand made in Japan, CANTON was established in 1963 and is well known to denim fans from long ago.

During the heyday of reproduction denim in the 1990s, the brand self-replicated its own denim, but to be honest, it was not very well made and we had forgotten about its existence.

In recent years, the brand has collaborated with Margaret Howell and provided uniforms to Sarutahiko Coffee, and is working as a fashion brand using high-quality materials rather than vintage-like denim.

But on the other hand, Canton also produces XX reproductions that are quite hot.

CANTON jeans were first made in Japan in 1963. At that time, CANTON was a pioneer brand of jeans in Japan, importing fabrics made by Corn Mills, Talon fasteners, and Scovill rivets, and sewing them on Union Special sewing machines, and tackling the production of authentic jeans with thorough attention to detail.

What is CANTON’s goal for XX denim?
Denim was woven from the late 1800s to the 1960s by two U.S. companies, Amoskeag and Cone Mills. With technological innovation in the 20th century, the textile industry underwent a major transformation, resulting in the existence of a wide variety of XX denim with different expressions and textures depending on the age. Even among the existing unwashed fabrics called “Dead,” the differences are not uniform due to the environment in which they were stored and the aging process over time.

―Adapted from http://canton.jp/1963xx/

To be honest, I had a bad impression of CANTON, but I have a good feeling about the fabric and the faded sample has an original feel to it. Personally, I am quite intrigued by the fact that the fabric is low in ounce (12oz before washing → 13.5oz after washing), but has such a good bite and the indigo color remains well.

I also like the fact that Canton is a fashion brand and not a reproduction. The silhouette is beautiful, and there is no fussiness. It has all the elements I was looking for in denim.

※http://canton.jp/
The website has been closed. It seems that the company is not bankrupt, but it is difficult to obtain reliable information.

ーhttps://www.instagram.com/canton_overalls/?hl=ja

CANTON OVERALLS / 1963XX DENIM (キャントンデニム)

created by Rinker

threekingdomsoveralls

Three kingdoms overalls is an American casual store that manufactures and sells original products made in Japan, located in Nagoya City, Aichi Prefecture.

The quality of the products, which is not the product of a single store, can be seen in the photos.

1. special order 100% natural indigo dyed (NATURAL INDIGO) 15.3oz selvedge denim, old style power loom (G type), low tension weaving, raw loom, made in Okayama
2. original warp uneven yarn original weft uneven yarn
3. 100% high quality long-fiber Zimbabwe cotton
4. 100% natural indigo, rope-dyed, darkest dye, core white

What caught my attention was the indigo color. It is a shiny fabric dyed with natural indigo, and a beautiful blue when the indigo dyed to the darkest shade expresses itself.

There are not many samples of color fading yet, so I don’t know how it will look after a few years of wear, but this is one I would like to try fading myself.

As someone who likes low ounces, the 15.3 oz. fabric is a bottleneck for me and I have yet to purchase these, but I would definitely recommend them to those who like heavy ounces.

https://shop.threekingdomsoveralls.com/

ーhttps://www.instagram.com/threekingdomsoveralls/?hl=ja

BASE DECOMP d46.5

Original jeans from BASE DECOMP, an American casual store in Ibaraki, Japan. The waist label may be controversial, but the natural-looking fading is a unique type of fading.

Denim inspired by the jeans made shortly after the war, 13.5 oz. fabric, iron buttons.

It is a denim with a nice look, although it is not well known because the store is not very enthusiastic about advertising.

I also like the change in leather patches and the packering atmosphere.

When punctured in an intense environment, it seems to be such an intense punch.
https://www.basedecomp.com/store/products/detail/37
https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/basedecomp/

OOE YOFUKUTEN

Oe Clothing Store’s denim makes you want to wear it at least once, anyway, when you see their attitude toward making things as a taylor. The brand has many core fans, and its Instagram posts often receive reactions from overseas.

The supple fabric made of Zimbabwe cotton has the elegance of a tailor.

The gradation of color fading is soft and not too assertive. Personally, I like this denim to fade smoothly without adding too many whiskers.

The denim is relatively difficult to obtain due to the small number of pieces produced, but that also adds to the satisfaction of owning it.

https://www.ooe-yofukuten-shop.com/
https://www.barnstormer.jp/(The store with the most inventory)

ーhttps://www.instagram.com/ooe_yofukuten/?hl=ja

TCB Jeans 20’s

It is a well-known brand among the brands introduced here, so it may seem like a bit of a new thing, but as a lover of light ounces, TCB’s 20’s is one I can’t miss.

The fabric is 12.5 oz. with warp and weft yarns of No. 8 cotton, specially ordered for this model, and dyed in indigo with a strong bluish hue characteristic of this era.

The fabric is firm despite its low ounceage, so it is relatively easy to get a bite. the photo by TCB is slightly exaggerated, but the color faded well in person.
http://tcbjeans.com/

ーhttps://www.instagram.com/tcbinoue/?hl=ja

TCBジーンズ TCB 20’s jeans デニム

created by Rinker

CANTON OVERALLS / 1963XX DENIM (キャントンデニム)

created by Rinker

20年ほどリプロダクト系のデニムを穿き続け、ある程度メジャーブランドは穿いてきた今、僕が穿きたいデニムをシンプルに紹介していきます。

CANTON（キャントン）

1963年に誕生した国産第1号のデニムブランドとして、古くからのデニムファンにはお馴染みのブCANTON（キャントン）。

90年代のレプリカジーンズ全盛期には、自身のデニムをセルフレプリカしていましたが、正直あまり出来が良くなくて、その存在を忘れてしまっていたブランドであります。

近年はマーガレット・ハウエルとのコラボ、猿田彦珈琲へのユニフォーム提供など、ビンテージライクなデニムというより、良質な素材を使ったファッションブランドとして、活動しています。

ただ一方で、かなり熱が入ったXXのリプロダクトも製作しています。

1963年に日本国内で初めて作られたジーンズがCANTON（キャントン）。当時、CANTONは本場米国製の生地をはじめTALONファスナーやSCOVILLリベットまでも輸入し、縫製はUNION SPECIAL社のミシンで縫い上げるなど徹底したコダワリを持って本格的ジーンズ作りに取り組んだ日本ジーンズの先駆的ブランドです。

CANTON が目指した XX デニムとは
1800 年代後半から 1960 年代にかけて米国のアモスケイグ社とコーンミルズ社の 2 社によって織られたデニムのことで、20 世紀の技術革新とともに、繊維産業にも大きな変革がもたらされ、年代によって表情も風合も異なる XX デニムが多種存在することとなる。現存している Dead と呼ばれる未洗いの生地に於いても保存されていた環境や長い年月による経年変化による差異は一様ではない。

―http://canton.jp/1963xx/より引用　　

正直CANTONを舐めていたところがあったのですが、生地感もよく、色落ちサンプルもオリジナル感があって好感触です。個人的には生地のオンスが低い（洗い前12oz→洗い後13.5oz）のに、これだけアタリが付き、インディゴの色残りが良いところがかなりそそられます。

またファッションブランドとして活動しているので、所謂リプロダクトになっていない点が好きです。シルエットがキレイで、野暮ったさがない。僕が今のデニムに求めていた要素が詰まった1本です。

※http://canton.jp/
サイトが閉鎖されています。ショップ別注などで製品がリリースされているので倒産はしていないようですが、確実な入手が難しい状況です。

　https://www.instagram.com/canton_overalls/?hl=ja

CANTON OVERALLS / 1963XX DENIM (キャントンデニム)

created by Rinker

threekingdomsoveralls

愛知県名古屋市にある日本製にこだわったオリジナルプロダクトも製造販売している、アメカジショップThree kingdoms overalls（スリーキングダムスオーバーレイルズ）。

いちショップとは思えないプロダクトへのこだわりが生み出すクオリティは、写真からでも十分に伝わってきます。

1．特別注文100%天然藍染 (NATURAL INDIGO) 15.3ozセルビッチデニム　旧式力織機（G型）ローテンション織り　生機　岡山製造
2．オリジナル縦ムラ糸　オリジナル横ムラ糸使用
3．100%高品質長繊維ジンバブエコットン使用
4．100%天然藍（NATURAL INDIGO）ロープ染色　最濃染　芯白

僕が気になった点は、インディゴの色。天然インディゴで染められた艶のある生地と、最濃まで染められたインディゴが表情を出した時の美しいブルーです。

まだ色落ちサンプルがあまり出ていないので、数年穿きこんだ際の表情が分かりませんが、自分で色落ちさせてみたい1本です。

低オンスが好きな僕としては15.3ozの生地がネックで購入に至っていませんが、ヘビーオンス好きな方に是非穿いていただきたいです。

https://shop.threekingdomsoveralls.com/

　https://www.instagram.com/threekingdomsoveralls/?hl=ja